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The intention of putting in hydraulic hand brake is not to take corners with locked rear wheels.

No stock hand brake at all and simply put in a hydraulic brake. E36 dust cover, custom spacer plate, custom e-bake cable grommet and e36 shoes.ģ. AND you will have a lot more unsprung weight in that already bigger and heavier disc. Then you will have the stock E30M3 handbrake. Lathe a ring that can be shrink into the E36M3 disc, with E30M3 inner diameter. That leaves you for three options when it comes to the handbrake ġ. Reason for the hydraulic handbrake is that I'm fitting the E36M3 3.2l rear brakes to match up with the already mounted 3.2l front brakes.Īnd, as you may know, the inner diameter of the rear disc is bigger than the E30M3 one. My other option is to use the bolt holes for the rear belts to guide the pipes. I will not plumb the handbrake circuit in ahead of the ABS, I will just simply cut the rear line some where near the firewall and run the line inside the car. Why do you want to do this? Are you looking for a parking brake, or do you want a rally style brake so you can slide around corners? I ask because no matter how you approach it, I think it would turn out to be a fairly complex mod.Yes, you are right about that extra caliper. If you plumbed in the handbrake downstream from the ABS and/or the brake proportioning valve.I have no idea what that would do. If you plumbed in the handbrake circuit "ahead" of the ABS, obviously the ABS would keep the rear wheels from locking when you slammed on the handbrake to try and slide around a corner (no doubt in an effort to escape Sheriff Buford T. This might be the simplest way to actually implement it, particularly if you are using ABS and the stock rear proportioning valve.

Don't quote me, but I think most hydraulic hand brakes use a small additional caliper on the rear discs, and the handbrake circuit is independent from the primary brake hydraulics.